To keep February’s romance going, Chef Charlie Palmer suggests  oysters – and for good reason.  When Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of sexual rapture, bestowed her aphrodisiacal qualities on oysters, it was more than myth. In addition to their obviously provocative appearance, oysters are loaded with zinc (which controls progesterone levels), iron and other stamina-inducing nutrients. For the romantic DIY’er putting together a seafood platter at home, here is some valuable shucking advice. Picking up the oyster and trying to pry open it in your hand (as you do a clam) is standard amateur mistake. Chef Charlie Palmer says, “consider yourself warned!”

Photo of oysters: Bill Milne

Oysters on the half-shell with Green Apple-Cucumber Dressing

Serves 4 as an appetizer

From “Charlie Palmer’s Practical Guide to the New American Kitchen, Melcher Media Inc. 2006

Depending on the occasion, oysters—particularly those topped with this refreshing green apple and cucumber mignonette*—pair well with a tropically-brewed, slightly spicy amber beer like San Miguel Dark Lager, or a crisp Pinot Gris with a citrus snap from Oregon.

Ingredients

¾ cup Mirin (sweet Japanese rice wine)

½ cup rice wine vinegar

2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 Tablespoons minced shallot

1 green apple, unpeeled

½ English cucumber, halved lengthwise and seeded

24 oysters, scrubbed clean

For serving: crushed ice or kosher salt

Shucking

Opening an oyster is something that must be done carefully with an oyster knife, preferably one with a stainless steel blade and a textured handle for a nonslip grip. An oyster shell is in two parts: one cupped to hold the body and the other relatively flat, like a lid. Using a folded kitchen towel, securely hold the oyster on a stabile work surface, cup side down with the point (or hinge side) facing towards you.  Insert the tip of the oyster knife through the hinge and turn your hand (like you are turning an ignition key) until you hear the hinge pop. Give a full twist to scrape the blade across the top of the shell cutting the muscle that attaches the oyster. Then cut the bottom muscle, keeping your hand out of the way and the oyster level at all times (so you don’t lose any of the juice).

The dressing

Whisk together the Mirin, vinegar, oil, and shallot in a medium bowl. Julienne the apple and cucumber, then dice them fine. Immediately drop them into the Mirin mixture (the acid in the wine will keep the apple from turning brown).

The oysters

This can be done several hours before serving, but oysters are best when fresh­est. It’s preferable to make the dressing, assemble the serving plates, and open the oysters at the last minute.

Get out a sheet pan. Take a piece of aluminum foil twice the length of the pan and crinkle it up to fit the pan and create a contoured bed for the opened oysters: You want them to stay level so the liquor doesn’t tip out of the shells. Open the oys­ters and nestle them into the foil. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

To serve

On each appetizer plate form a mound of salt or crushed ice then flatten it slightly. Spoon the dressing over the oysters while they are still on the pan and then carefully transfer them to the plates, arranging six oysters on each. Serve with cocktail forks.